Mexicooo
I noticed that my gay bestie from my surf club in grad school was traveling so I hit him up. He lost his job so mentioned he’s like to visit me. We FaceTimed and since it was getting colder in Colorado, I mentioned meeting up in Sayulita, a small surf town in Mexico.
Jorge lives in Mexico so he was instantly in! We talked on a Thursday and by the next Monday morning we both hopped on flights to Puerto Vallerta. The airport is small so we spotted each other and caught the bus to quaint Sayulita. Talking the entire time, we caught up about work, family, and how we’d been since we last saw each other in Spain.
End of May we attended Primavera, a music festival in Barcelona. We saw SZA, Charli XCX, Vampire Weekend, Lana Del Rey, and countless other stellar bands for only $230 3 day passes. The festival opened up late afternoon and went until the early morning so it definitely ran on Barcelona time! The time difference from the states actually made it easy to stay awake into the wee hours of the night. I should do another post on that trip!
The bus ride felt quick and our Airbnb was close to the stop so we walked over. We booked an adorable bungalow with an outdoor shower, sink, and patio. The space was perfect for the two of us with a cozy kitchen, bed on the main floor, and upper loft bedroom. We settled in and changed to get some food.
The weather was sticky humid and hot. Sayulita was noisy with construction and preparations for the Dia de Los Muertos celebration that coming weekend.
I visited the town before in March 2021 a few months after my grandma died. Feeling heartbroken, lost, and stuck, the trip made me feel alive and hopeful again. I connected with local multicultural people and other travelers and got my confidence and vibrancy back so the town has a special place in my heart.
Sayulita seemed busier and more touristy than my visit 3 years ago. Maybe it was just because of the upcoming holiday but it felt more Americanized with pop music and older tourists. My friend and I found a cute central restaurant and got some yummy fish tacos.
We walked to the main beach and the surf looked choppy and inconsistent but tempting. I was eager to paddle around on a board so we rented foam boards. They ended up being super water logged and slippery so neither of us could catch much of anything. Jorge hadn’t surfed in a while so he was just trying to get the hang of it.
Nevertheless, it was wonderful to be in the ocean watching the sunset. The water was so warm it felt like bath water. We gave up on the shitty boards and turned them in. That night, we had some drinks on our patio and listened to music. Later on we grocery shopped and made ham and cheese quesadillas and tea. The travel tired us out so we went to bed early.
The next morning, we took the bus to La Lancha, a local pristine surf beach. We walked down a jungle tree-covered path to view the surf before renting boards. The waves were glassy and long so we hurried up to get boards. I went out with a crowd of a few people and Jorge took already crashed waves closer to shore. I took some nice long waves I could carve on. Boy, it felt amazing to be doing what I loved on a nice longboard.
After a satisfying session, we chowed down on yummy parrot fish burgers at a local café. The area was definitely more expensive than I remember but from what I’ve experienced, inflation has impacted every corner of the globe. We got a car ride back to our bungalow and took a little nap. That night, we walked in town to see the sunset and got supplies to make spaghetti. After dinner, we watched The Boy and the Heron, a heartwarming animated Miyazaki film.
The next morning, we had a quick breakfast and headed back to La Lancha. The tide was dripping lower the day before so we wanted to get into the water earlier. That day the surf was more disappointing and inconsistent so we tried an area slightly to the right by a rocky reef area. The waves were ok and I scored some but they were trickier and smaller. I gave up since I was on my period and Jorge stayed in a bit longer.
Back in town, we got açaí bowls and made more quesadillas. It didn’t feel too humid out so we laid on the beach until sunset watching the surfers gracefully cross-step almost into the sandy beach. We didn’t want to cook so we split a pizza at a restaurant near our Airbnb north of the main downtown.
My boyfriend was caught off guard when I told him I’d be gone for a few days and bummed out that we wouldn’t be together on Halloween. I was in town the weekend before but was working and planned to fly back Friday, the day after Halloween. I made sure to call him every night and he got to talk with Jorge too. My travel lifestyle is hard on him sometimes because he loves having me around, not a bad problem to have but I wish his schedule would allow him to accompany me more often.
That night felt heavy to me. Scorpio season was in full swing. Death and rebirth themes were prevalent and honoring the dead was top of mind. Every boutique was filled with artistic depictions of skeletons as couples and with unique outfits and faces. One night, Jorge and I walked through the square and noticed a huge skeleton woman statue being painted. The skeleton in the square with palm trees in the background was a sight to see!
Halloween morning, we got a drink and pastry and decided to venture out to a nearby town called San Pancho. It felt like Sayulita before it got more touristy. We ventured in some cute shops and set up our towels and umbrella on the beach. The waves were strong and crashing close to shore so it wasn’t great surfing.
We swam out a bit enjoying the water and order some spiked coconuts. For some reason, Jorge’s coconut was way more spiked than mine so he got a bit tipsy. We found some souvenirs and ceviche in town but it took forever to come to us. By the time the sun was setting, we got a ride back to our Airbnb.
Along the way, we noticed people lining up for the parade and men with painted faces on horses. It was cool to see a sneak peak of the Halloween parade. We showered and got dressed for the festivities. I wore a purple sparkly 2000s slinky party dress and black furry silver sparkly fairy wings.
While on a walk in my neighborhood, I noticed someone left out a rack of free Halloween costumes, clothes, and accessories. Both pieces were from the free rack and I scored some other treasures. Jorge and I walked through crowds to the square to see what was going on. I was worried we’d miss the parade but it hadn’t start yet.
We walked around noticing the stage, skeleton lady statue, an orange flower archway, and multiple drink and street food venders. I got a big mango juice for only $2! The parade finally started and contained lots of Mexican contemporary and heritage elements including skull faced couples, mariachi bands, fire stick dancers, and horses. I thoroughly enjoyed the vibrant display of culture and spooky touches.
After the parade winded down, Jorge badgered me to get food at a Peruvian restaurant we got free margarita coupons to. We walked up the street from the square and found the spot. The place had a modern disco vibe and was pretty empty besides some employees hanging out taking shots. They gave us free shots too!!
We ordered classic margaritas and they tasted delicious. We also got a potato appetizer and lomo saltado which is a beef stir fry with fries. We split the dishes and everything was decadent and stylishly plated. The staff were so nice and friendly to us! The food brought me memories of volunteering and living in Peru a few years ago.
After dinner, we wandered around and got drinks at YamBak. I remembered the spot from last time. A DJ played some techno house beats. It was ok but I was starting to tire out so we went back to our place. I called my boyfriend so I could show him my costume and tell him about the parade. I missed him and was looking forward to going home.
The next morning, we got coffee and a pastry at a local café and walked to the beach. The longboard surf competition was on again so we sat on the sand and watched. I love how surfers in Sayulita maneuver their boards and cross step. It’s so artistic and graceful!
I saw a souvenir last night I wanted to get for my brother so Jorge and I walked down the main stretch of shops. While grabbing the gift, I got something for myself too. I almost wanted to swim one last time but needed to finish packing. Jorge and I went back to our bungalow Airbnb and threw our stuff together.
I said goodbye to Jorge. He was staying a couple extra days at a place nearby. Besides, the AC unit in our place was leaking in our kitchen so the place needed some maintenance. I got on the bus and just made it on the afternoon flight back to Denver.
When I got home, my boyfriend got me a succulent in a skull pot, a candle, and a cute card. My trip to Sayulita was a blast and nice getaway while Colorado was starting to cool down. I wanted to surf more in town but wasn’t able to with the surf competition. Flying back, I reflected on my ancestors since it was the Day of the Dead. I’m grateful for my ancestors and the legacy and life they gave me.
Sayulita is a gem especially during the northern winter and spring if you ever get the chance to visit. Thanks for reading and enjoy the holidays!
Xo,
Megan